Where should I draw the line in my exploration to Eat Local when it comes to small, independent food companies that may not source its food ingredients from within my 150-mile self-defined area?
One of the great benefits of living in the Bay Area is what I consider to be the intersection between great food and entrepreneurship. Great food is expressed through entrepreneurship in the forms of new food products, new restaurants, cafes or other retail businesses. Heck, add school programs and gardens to that list and you've only just begun. And I suspect that rather than applying a literal definition to my exploration, I should recognize that one of the aspects of supporting a local food movement is that I am supporting small businesses and entrepreneurs, many of whom elevate food by applying artisan traditions to their craft.
One such business that I had been meaning to visit for quite some time is Fraiche Yogurt. I first read of Fraiche back in January in the San Francisco Chronicle. To my knowledge, it is the only retailer in Northern California (and possibly California) that makes its own yogurt on premise.
These days, Palo Alto is a long journey for me to make in search of yogurt. But I recall reading Barbara Kingsolver's book Animal, Vegetable, Miracle back in October and how she declared that it's probably against the law for her to make cheese for her own consumption in the state of Virginia. This is the result of health laws being written strictly with large scale producers in mind. Having gone through my own protracted battle with the Marin County Health Department back in 2005 to receive permit approval for a new food concept (new to the county, not to the world), I became interested in seeing a small scale yogurt factory, to taste the difference in the product, and to learn how another Bay Area entrepreneur was able to buck the system to get approval for dairy product production.
Fraiche is a simple concept that appears to be doing extremely well with the only difference between it and any of the thousands of existing frozen yogurt stores being in the quality of its product by virtue of how it is made on site. I had a chance to speak with one of the owners, Jessica, after she approached me wanting to know why I was taking pictures inside of the store. I mumbled something about yelp (damnit, I should have mumbled something about being a blogger!), but then spent the next 15 minutes peppering her with questions. Some of what I learned is:
- It uses Clover organic milk which is based in Petaluma as well as its own proprietary blend of "probiotic-focused culture." I didn't have the nerve to ask whether the cultures are from the Bay Area or not;
- It produces whole, 2% and non-fat fresh yogurt varieties that it also uses to freeze and flavor for its fro-yo fans;
- It offers complimentary maple syrup, or any of three honeys (wildflower, sage, and clover) as a topping. It also sells additional toppings from shaved chocolate (shaved from a huge block right there in front of you) to fruits and nuts and other commonly found yogurt toppings;
- It serves a limited variety of baked goods that are made locally (and as Jessica emphasized, in small batches - just as any artisan would proclaim). The muffins are made with yogurt and applesauces as a butter substitute, and the other baked goods such as the Lavender Sea Salt biscotti sounded wonderful;
- It serves Blue Bottle Coffee from Oakland (who she reported is no longer signing up wholesale accounts - with its soon to open Ferry Building location, I'm guessing that Blue Bottle is finally getting serious about expanding its own retail footprint).
And the yogurt itself? I ordered a small size of the whole fresh yogurt with no toppings for $2.95. I wanted to taste the fresh stuff unadultured and pure. All I can say is that it is NOT the yogurt I made last week. Nope, no way! First of all, it's much thicker, a texture I can only describe as like a smooth ricotta cheese, I suppose more in the style of Greek yogurt. And the taste is very clean, with only the slightest hint of tang. Basically, it's a thick and creamy bowl of milk.
From the volume of yelp reviews (532 as of tonight) and the constant comings and goings of customers from students to internet professionals during the 30 minutes I was there, I think Fraiche has a successful concept. But since it's unlikely that I'll make the drive back to Palo Alto JUST for more yogurt, I picked up another pint for $6.95. Like many artisanal or small batch foods, it's not the least expensive option. But like the Juice Club was when I was a student at Stanford in the early 90's, it's a concept that is different enough to justify the higher prices. I suspect that like the Juice Club (now Jamba Juice), we'll be seeing more stores sometime in the future.
I only hope they keep using Bay Area milk!
Yum yum yum! Amazing to see some varieties.
Posted by: patio furniture | May 03, 2011 at 09:26 PM